…I went surfing big waves with a 67 year old in Bocas Panama

I just went surfing with a 67 year old and a 51 year old. Sully is the 51 year old dude I play poker with (pictured in yellow trunks in separate photo post) who has a 9th grade education,speaks perfect Spanish, married a Panamanian woman and has small kids. He has lived here since 92 where he sold his house in the US at the right time and built a mansion here that is worth alot of money today. He reminds me of Popeye the sailor man. He is hyper so much so that I wanted to get some Ritalin and shove it down his throat while screaming “SHUT UP man you talk too much.” But Sully who is actually a gentleman,has a healthier treatment for his ADHD .He wears himself out surfing almost every day.. Rob is Sully’s 67 year old buddy. This guy surfs like a pro. Sully rents him the downstairs of Sully’s house (a 6 br 4 bath house right on a prime location in town on a point on the water).Rob gets the first floor of the house which is 4br and 3 baths for $400 a month. Sully says I can come and I can stay too and we can all surf and fish together as buddies.

First of all about surfing. Obviously I had never done this before. If you are over 50 I do not recommend you do it if you value your life. I thought I was in shape. I LIED because I died out there. I mean it took all my energy to keep from flipping over on the board and sitting without flipping over was also a big problem. Still they were impressed that I didn’t flip over. Then there was paddling back once I rode a wave. I made the mistake of not going far enough around to the side and tried to return paddling thru more big waves .Sully saw me going in slow motion and would come over and say hold onto my cord that is tied to his ankle and he turned into a human tug boat with hyper active arms propelling both his board and mine forward.

I have only a few fears and one of them is drowning. There were giant waves out there I mean at least 10 ft high and I caught a few. I will post pics of waves that approximate what we surfed. We were not near any beaches we were out there having anchored our boat on a buoy. Sully would say “paddle paddle keep paddling” and then just when the wave was about to come smashing down on me that is when I was supposed to pop up and stand and ride that baby,well guess what ?survival instinct kicked in and said “Hell no don’t you dare stand now you fool you’ll get us killed… hold on for dear life man your about to be crushed by a tsunami,” so I stayed on my belly with a death grip on that board and rode a series of waves that flew me and I mean FLEW me at least 200 yards. I did stand towards the end but immediately fell off. On my third wave I managed to get up on a foot and a knee for a long time at the end. Sully was cheering me on.

But here’s the bad part. My sternum felt like there was an alien trying to burst out of my chest cavity from constantly rubbing on the board,I was nervous about drowning, being eaten by Jaws and having my neck snapped like a chicken and I quickly became exhausted,seasick,nauseous and had diarrhea all at the same time. This was dealt with while clinging to the side of the boat in a fetal position, all the while I was being sun burnt to a crisp where you could fry and egg on my skin cancerous semi bald head. I barely made it back to the boat after a couple hours of surfing but aside from that it was the most fun I had since whitewater rafting. I was heard screaming as loud as I could OH SHIT as the TSUNAMI engulfed me and then YEEHAAA while literally flying up in the air for 200 yards on the crest of a wave.

I went back to the hotel room to lay down and recover for my massage appointment at the “Spa by the sea”,a gorgeous place which is run by two women. The one who massaged me was a beautiful young feminine looking American,she was surprisingly strong and there was pain in the house. It hurt but it was the kind of pain that hurts so good. As a nurse friend of mine would say it was DIVINE.

After the massage, another break sitting at the waterfront lounge of my hotel room, and then off to have a delicious lobster dinner on a floating restaurant while watching the sunset, playing a poker tournament,where I met a blonde American woman I think I could date if I were to stay here. Bocas is a fun place nevertheless I am going back to my Costa Rica mountain home to look into starting a grocery store with me neighbor and to increase my prepping for coming hard times.

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3 thoughts on “…I went surfing big waves with a 67 year old in Bocas Panama

  1. good description of the terrror of surfing…what about the dudes that surf on the north shore on Oahu in december?  it is truly terrifying to watch.  30′ waves.  I saw a woman pulled off the beach by a rogue wave there 1 day. 

  2. I can only imagine truly giant waves. Sufing is not for me,perhaps when I was young I could have mastered it perhaps if I tried real hard now I could but it sure is alot of work.

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